Visiting Svalbard has been on my bucket list for a few years now. Most people don’t know what I’m talking about when I say Svalbard. If you don’t know, Svalbard is a remote Norwegian archipelago in the Arctic Ocean. It is known for its stunning glaciers, unique wildlife (including polar bears), and the otherworldly beauty of the Northern Lights. The largest island is Spitsbergen, and the largest settlement is Longyearbyen, which is on the west coast of Spitsbergen. It’s basically as close as you can get to the North Pole.
This is where my journey began—well, kind of. My journey started two days before Kalamazoo to Detroit, Detroit to Amsterdam, Amsterdam to Oslo, an overnight stay in Oslo, and a short three-hour flight to Longyearbyen. For being such a remote place, it shocked me just how full the flight to Longyearbyen was!
I stepped off the plane and onto the tarmac. (It seems like all my great adventures begin on a tarmac!) Excitement ran through my veins – I was finally in Svalbard!!! We saw our first polar bear at the airport above the baggage carousel. He was stuffed, but it was exciting nonetheless. We settled into our hotel and walked into town for lunch and shopping. Longyearbyen isn’t big. The population is about 2,200, and it seems all the locals know each other!
We spent less than 24 hours in Svalbard, and I quickly realized that I should have planned for more time there. Svalbard only has one grocery store; of course, we had to visit it! It was more like half grocery store, half Target. They had anything and everything you could want there. Some items seemed expensive, and others were pretty cheap. They also don’t have any sales tax on the island! We visited almost all the shops in town, and I’m happy to say I came home with some fantastic treasures!
That night, we arrived at Camp Barentz. It’s only about 15 minutes outside of town, but our guides are equipped with a flare gun and riffle if the polar bears are curious (or hungry) and get too close. The camp is a small set of cabins, one of which is a copy of the cabin that the discoverer of Svalbard, Willem Barentz, built in 1596.
We entered one of the cabins and sat around the perimeter at tables. There was a large campfire in the middle with large pots where they were cooking reindeer stew. I wasn’t sure what to expect, but it was pretty good. It looked more like corned beef but tasted like plain old beef. We were also served some drinks (alcoholic and non-alcoholic), coffee, and dessert. After dinner, we learned about the King of the Arctic—the polar bear—while everyone sat around the open fire in the cabin. It was a lovely evening and a great start to our adventure.
The next morning, we took a tour of the city! We drove around the town. The tour will make a mandatory stop at the iconic polar bear sign before continuing into Adventdalen, passing the town’s dog kennels, and up to Mine 7 and the Northern Lights Observatory. The tour then continues to Mine 3, past Hotellneset near the airport, with a brief stop at the Seed Vault on the way down. Additionally, you will receive a local guide through the center of Longyearbyen, and we will gladly make an extra stop if we encounter any reindeer along the way.
Later that afternoon, we embarked on the MS Trollfjord, our home for the next week. This isn’t your typical cruise; it’s a smaller ship accommodating only 500 passengers. I enjoyed the intimate atmosphere with fewer people. Hurtigruten’s Svalbard Line offers a unique opportunity to experience the Norwegian Arctic in comfort and style. Aboard, we were treated to day-long views, fine dining, and a focus on cultural enrichment.
The recently launched Svalbard Line takes you on an immersive journey through the delights of Norway’s islands and coastline and into the Arctic wilderness. It’s one of the few cruises to spend time exploring the Arctic landscape beyond a visit to Longyearbyen.
Before departing Svalbard, we stopped at the tiny research settlement Ny-Ålesund. Only a handful of researchers from all over the world live here, but important cultural heritage is preserved, making for a fascinating few hours. We explored a remote Arctic research settlement with guards armed for unexpected—yet possible—polar bear encounters.
Ny-Ålesund is a very special place that few people ever get to visit. Founded in 1906 as a Norwegian coal mining settlement, it rapidly grew into a thriving community. By the 1920s, Ny-Ålesund became a hub for Arctic exploration, hosting legendary expeditions led by Roald Amundsen and Umberto Nobile. The town’s mining heyday peaked in the 1950s and ’60s but ceased operations in 1962 due to economic and safety concerns. Abandoned and left to decay, Ny-Ålesund found a new purpose in the 1990s as an international research center focusing on climate change, geology, and biology. Today, with its preserved mining architecture and breathtaking landscapes, this Arctic outpost attracts scientists, tourists, and adventurers, showcasing human resilience and adaptation in extreme environments. The settlement’s small museum tells the story of this and more.
Before we knew it, we were back onboard and setting sail to Coastal Norway!
